Skin Care Ingredients

A

Acrylates Copolymer – Film former.  A thickener, absorbs skin secretions and reduces shine. 

Acrylates Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer - Viscosity increasing agent (aqueous).  Thickening Agent.  May contain harmful impurities.  Low absorption through skin.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract – Aloe Vera.  (Good stuff!!)

Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil - Fragrance. (throw your hands up in the air an run away from this ingredient screaming if it is not listed towards the bottom!)

Aniba Rosaedora (Rosewood) Wood Oil - Fragrance.  Skin Irritant.  (throw your hands up in the air an run away from this ingredient screaming if it is not listed towards the bottom!)

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil - Chamomile.  Antioxidant.  Antibacterial.  (Good stuff!!)

 B

Beeswax - Oldest raw ingredient used in cosmetic preparations.  An emulsifier for water-in-oil emulsions.  Credited with anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, anti-oxidant, antibacterial, germicidal, and skin softening properties, but there is no scientific proof to back this up.  Depending on the source may be non-comedogenic.  Rarely causes sensitivity and allergic reactions.

Behenic Acid - Water soluble constituent of seed fats, animal fats and marine animal olis.  Thickening agent and surfactant.  Considered a non-comedogenic raw material.

Benzalkonium Chloride – Preservative.  Can be a skin irritant. (a controversial ingredient)

BHT (Butylated Hydroxytolene) – Preservative and anti-oxidant in products, can cause allergic reactions. (a controversial ingredient).

Blue 1 – Color additive.  Safe to use in skin care products.

Butylene Glycol - Viscosity decreasing agent.  Humectant resistant to high humidity.  Retains scents and preserves against spoilage.  Solvent with microbial action.  Enhances preservative activity of parabens.  Can be a skin irritant.

  C

C12-15 Alkyl Lactate – Fatty acid ester of lactic acid and C12-15 alcohols.  Also known as Ceraphyl 41.

Carbomer - Reacts with fat particles to form thick, stable emulsions of oil in water.  (Good stuff!!)

Cellulose – Thickener.  Emulsifier.  (Good stuff!!)

Ceresin - Thickener and binder.  Used in protective creams as a beeswax and paraffin substitute.  A waxy material that may cause allergic reactions.  May be non-comedogenic.

Ceteth - Surface active agent in cosmetics.  A compound of derivatives of cetyl, lauryl, stearyl, and oleyl alcohols mixed with ethylene oxide.

Ceteth-20 - Emulsifier for oil-in-water creams and lotions.  Polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol.  May contain harmful impurities but is safe in cosmetics.

Cetyl Alcohol – Emollient. Emulsifier. Thickener. Binder. Foam booster. Stabilizer.  Derived from coconut or palm oil.  May be non-comedogenic.  Unlike “alcohol” cetyl alcohol softens and conditions the skin.  (Good stuff!!)

Cetyl Lactate – Emollient used to improve the feel and texture of cosmetic preparations.

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract – Chamomile oil.  Wild chamomile extract.  Soothing medication for inflammation.  (Good Stuff!!)

Citric Acid – Astringent and anti-oxidant properties, adjusts the pH of product to prevent it from being too alkaline, low sensitizing potential.

Cocamide MEA – Fatty acid of coconut oil, used as a thickening/binding agent, foam booster when used with other cleaning agents.  (a controversial ingredient due to the manufacturing process)

Cocamidopropyl PG-Diaonium Chloride Phosphate – Antimicrobial and antifungal.  Very mild to skin.

Coco-Glucoside - Derived from coconut oil.  Mild cleansing agent.  (good stuff!!)

Coconut Alcohol - Emollient, emulsifier, stabilizer, or surfactant depending on product formulation.  (Good stuff!!)

Cymbopogon Martini Oil - Geranium oil.  Fragrance.  Skin irritant.  (throw your hands up in the air an run away from this ingredient screaming if it is not listed towards the bottom!)
  
D

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil - Wild carrot oil.  Non-fragrant emollient oil.  Can cause dermatitis.  (throw your hands up in the air an run away from this ingredient screaming!)

Disodium EDTA – Preservative

DMDM Hydantoin - Preservative.  May release formaldehyde.  Can be a skin irritant.  Similar to imidazolidinyl urea.  DMDM is an acronym for dimethylimidazolidine. (a controversial ingredient)

 F

Fragrance - Natural and synthetic compunds added to a formulation to give an aroma and mask chemical odors.  May be used without describing what is actually in the compound.  Can cause allergic reactions.  (throw your hands up in the air an run away from this ingredient screaming if it is not listed towards the bottom!)  

 G

Geranium Maculatum Oil - Fragrance.   (throw your hands up in the air an run away from this ingredient screaming if it is not listed towards the bottom!)

Glycerin – Humectant.  Retains moisture.  Found naturally in the skin.  (Good stuff!!)

Glycol Distearate – Surfactant made from glycerin and stearic acid.

Glycolic Acid – Alpha Hydroxy Acid.  Exfoliates.  Improves skin hydration.  Beneficial for acne prone skin.  Helps diminish signs of age spots and reduces appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.  Naturally found in sugar cane.   (Good stuff!)

Guaiac Extract - Fragrance.  Skin irritant.  (throw your hands up in the air an run away from this ingredient screaming if it is not listed towards the bottom!)

H

Hydroxypropyl Methycellulose – Reduces active surfactant concentrations without the loss of the desirable lathering properties.  Mild to skin and eyes.

I

Imidazolidinyl Urea - Antibacterial preservative.  Can cause contact dermatitis.

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate -  Preservative.  Can be an irritant.  Iodine based alternative to paraben preservatives.  (a controversial ingredient)

L

Laureth-10 – Surfactant, emulsifying agent.

Lauric Acid – Found in coconut oil and laurel oil, anti-microbial properties, mild irritant, but not a sensitizer, can be comedogenic.

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil - Rich emollient.  Skin conditioner  (Good stuff!!)

M

Mannitol – Humectant.  Mostly prepared from seaweed.

Masking Fragrance - Small amount of fragrance used to mask unpleasant odors in a product. (throw your hands up in the air and run away from this ingredient screaming) 

Menthol – Fragrance.  Gives a cooling sensation to the skin.  Derived from peppermint.  Can be a skin irritant.  (throw your hands up in the air and run away from this ingredient screaming)

Methylchloroisothiazolinone – Preservative used to replace formaldehyde, sensitizing potential. (throw your hands up in the air and run away from this ingredient screaming)

Methylisothiazolinone – Powerful preservative, commonly used with methylchloroisothiazolinone.  Sensitizer and irritant when used in “leave in” products.  (throw your hands up in the air and run away from this ingredient screaming)

Methylparaben - One of the oldest used preservatives in use to combat bacteria and molds.  May penetrate skin.  Can cause allergic reactions. (a controversial ingredient)

Mineral Oil - Liquid mixture of hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum.  Emollient cleanser and demulsifier of dirt trapped in pores.  May be comedogenic. 

Montan Wax - Hard earth wax derived of extractions of lignite (coal made from wood).  Substitute for carnauba and beeswax.  Binder and thickener. 

 N

Niacinamide – Derived from Vitamin B3, increases ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevents moisture loss in skin, suppresses melanin from reaching the skins surface, some anti-oxidant and inflammatory properties.  (Good stuff!)

P

Panthenol – Vitamin B5.  Penetrating moisturizer.  Aides in tissue repair.  Improves hydration, reduces itching and inflammation.  (Good stuff!!)

PEG-15 Stearyl Ether – Also known as PPG-11 Stearyl Ether.  Emollient.  Used in skin care products to give a silky look and feel.  (Good stuff!!)

PEG-100 – Polyethylene Glycol, blended into a formulation to obtain a desired humectancy.

PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate - Cleansing agent.  Surfactant.  Emulsifier.  Not to be used on damaged skin.  (Good stuff!!)
 
PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate – Polymer with cleansing, emulsifying, and solvent action.

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil - Surfactant.  Cleansing agent.  Polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil.  May contain harmful impurities.  Not to be used on injured or damaged skin.  (throw your hands up in the air and run away from this ingredient screaming)

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate – Polythylene glycol ethers of glyceryl cocoate (coconut oil).  Self-emulsifying emollient suitable for water based formulas.

Pentadecalactone – Synthetic cosmetic fragrance, strong irritant potential.  (throw your hands up in the air and run away from this ingredient screaming)

Phenoxyethanol - Solvent.  Broad range preservative.  Also used as a fragrance.  Can be obtained from phenol.  Potential irritant.  (a controversial ingredient)

Piper Niagrum Seed Extract - Black pepper extract.  Skin irritant. (throw your hands up in the air and run away from this ingredient screaming)

Polyethylene – Bonds ingredients together.  Provides product stability in cosmetic formulations.  Derived from petroleum gas or dehydration of alcohol.  No known skin toxicity.  (Good stuff!!)

Polysorbate 20 – Derived from Lauric Acid.  Emulsifier.  Stabilizer of essential oils in water.  (Good stuff!!)

Polysorbate 60 – Emulsifier.  Stabilizer of essential oils in water.  (Good stuff!!)

Polyquarternium-10 – Antistatic ingredient, film former, conditioning agent.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate – Mixture of esters of phosophoric acid and cetyl alcohol.  Surfactant.  Emulsifier.  (Good stuff!!)

Propylene Glycol – Humectant.  Better skin permeation than Glycerin.  (Good stuff!!)

Propylparaben - Widely used preservative.  May penetrate skin.  Can cause contact dermatitis. (a controversial ingredient)

R

Rosa Damascena Extract - Damask rose. Fragrance.   (throw your hands up in the air an run away from this ingredient screaming if it is not listed towards the bottom!)

S

Salicylic Acid – Beta Hydroxy Acid.  Helps dissolve the top layer of Corneum cells.  Effective ingredient in acne products.  Reduces blockage by penetrating pores and exfoliate build up.  Antimicrobial and antiseptic.  For anti-aging products it appears to help improve wrinkles.  Related to aspirin and found in wintergreen leaves and sweet birch bark.  (Good stuff!!)

Sodium Benzotriazoyl Butyphenol Sulfonate – Protects light sensitive ingredients from degradation.

Sodium Hydroxide – Caustic Soda.  Soda Lye.  An alkali and emulsifier in liquid face powders and soaps.  A pH adjuster.  Skin irritant in higher quantities.  (a controversial ingredient)

Sodium Laureth Sulfate – Derived from coconut oil, surfactant and emulsifier, gentle cleansing agent. Not the same as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.
 
Sodium Lauroamphoacetate – Surfactant, conditioning/cleaning agent, film booster.

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate - Surfactant.  Synthetic skin conditioning agent.  May enhance penetration of other products through skin by altering skin structure. (a controversial ingredient)

Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate – mild conditioning/cleaning agent, enhances penetration of other ingredients into the skin.

Sodium Trideceth Sulfate – Surfactant, cleansing agent, used as an emulsifier.


Sorbitol - Humectant.  An inexpensive replacement for glycerin.  Obtained from leaves and sometimes berries of mountain ash.  When used in extremely dry conditions it can pull moisture from the skin leaving it dry or damaged.  (Good stuff!!) 

Steareth-21 – Emulsifier.  Surfactant with minor irritation potential to skin and eyes.  (Good stuff!!)
T

Tocopheryl Acetate – Vitamin E, antioxidant and skin conditioner.  (Good stuff!)

Triethanolamine - Used in surfactants and a dispersing agent and detergent.  Emulsifier.  pH adjuster.  (Good stuff!!)

 X

Xanthan Gum – Thickener.  Emulsifier. Corn Starch Gum.  Texturizer, carrier agent, and gelling agent in cosmetic preparations.  (Good stuff!!)

Y

Yellow 5 – Most widely used color agent.  Safe to use in skin care products.